LEADER 03853cam a22003974a 4500003 hubpceuo 005 20230223132837.0 008 031017s2004 enka b 001 0 eng 010 2003022920 020 1859737730 (cloth) 020 1859737781 (pbk.) 040 DLC |cDLC |dDLC |dhubpceuo |beng 041 eng 042 pcc 043 e-it--- 050 00 GT968 |b.P38 2004 082 00 391/.00945/0904 |222 100 1 Paulicelli, Eugenia, |d1958- 245 10 Fashion under fascism : |bbeyond the black shirt / |cEugenia Paulicelli. 260 Oxford ;New York : |bBerg, |c2004. 300 xii, 227 p. : |bill. ; |c24 cm. 440 0 Dress, body, culture 504 Includes bibliographical references (p. 203-213) and index. 505 Introduction. Fashion and Italian Identity: An Ongoing Process and Love Affair -- The Bella Figura and the Fashioned Self. The Birth of a Discourse on Dress and the Craze for Fashion in Renaissance Italy -- Fashion, Gender and Power in Interwar Italy -- Inventing the Italian Look: Between Modernity and Tradition -- Fashion, Culture and National Identity. Rosa Genoni and the Futurists -- The "New Woman" and Fascism. Lydia De Liguoro and the Project for an Italian Fashion -- "An Italian Fashion does not exist yet. We must create it" -- Disciplining the Body, Language and Style -- The Discourse on Fashion Under the Fascist Regime. An Italian Dictionary and Commentary of Fashion by Cesare Meano -- Restless Voices. Femininity, Motherhood and Gender in Women's Writing in Bellezza -- Dress, Style and the National Brand -- The Commentario by Meano and Nationalism -- Sport, Gender and Models of Femininity -- Fashion, Film and the Politics of the Regime -- From Hollywood to France. From France to Italy: Alessandro Blasetti's Contessa di Parma -- Nationalizing the Fashion Industry? -- The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy -- Grandi Magazzini and Standardization -- Cinegiornali on Fashion: Advertising the Italian Look -- I Grandi Magazzini by Mario Camerini as a Popular Novel -- The National Conference on "Clothing and Autarchy," Turin, June 1940 -- Conclusion. Beyond the Black Shirt: Resisting the Code -- Appendix: Interview with Fashion Designer Micol Fontana. 520 Prada, Gucci, Max Mara: high fashion is synonymous with luxury, glamor, pleasure, and Italy. Yet Italian fashion also has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930's Italy dominated more than just politics--it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail. Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vividly reflected political tyranny. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today. This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics. 580 The Roger Griffin ComFas Collection 650 0 Fashion |zItaly |xHistory |y20th century. 650 0 Clothing and dress |zItaly |xHistory |y20th century. 650 0 Fascism |zItaly |xHistory |y20th century. 880 |6245 942 |2ddc |cBK 952 |00 |10 |2ddc |40 |6391_000000000000000__00945_0904_PAU |70 |8GEN |9161398OSA |bOSA |d2023-02-09 |eComFas |l0 |o391/.00945/0904 PAU |r2023-02-09 |w2023-02-09 |yBK |cGeneral Stacks 920 01 yYgxZEe2 992 01 391_000000000000000__00945_0904_PAU |bWQY_ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ__ZZQVU_ZQZV_AP5 966 |cIn the Research Room